Shampoos – Safe or Unsafe?
There’s been a lot of discussion among my friends lately on whether or not shampooing one’s hair is safe. Snork brought this delimma to our attention around the first of the year, after she decided that she would be a slave to fashion and hygiene no more, and embarked upon a quest to go from Pantene lovely to no shampoo grunge.
OK, so maybe she didn’t set out to get to grunge. But there she is now – at grunge. Poor girl, I feel sorry for her, and I tried to help her out but it doesn’t seem to be doing much good. I do have a hunch that I know why she’s having such a waxy problem right now, though. I remember years ago being told by several hair care experts that Pantene is not good for your hair, because what makes it look and feel so slick is wax. It stands to reason that if Snork has been using Pantene for years, the waxy build up would be significant, and as such … well, it’s going to take a long while for that stuff to exit her head, won’t it? I feel really bad for her, because she’s trying to do the right thing, but in the end, if her co-workers avoid her and her man pulls away from her hugs, is it worth it?
Now, I have a product that can be used as both a shampoo and a body wash. I love body washes, though I typically avoid them in the winter months, thanks to unfortunate dry skin issues. I do love the one I have though, and I use it occasionally in the winter and almost exclusively during the summer months (there is this post’s confession). My niece Kourtney LOVES it for her hair. When I first considered offering it, I did the research to ensure that the ingredients were safe, and according to everything I found, they are. But in light of Snork’s insistence on not using shampoo, and the internet’s underground no-shampoo club, I decided to do a little more research. This is what I found out. I’ll provide links and hopefully some helpful information so you can make the decision for yourself.
First of all, my dad has always said that “Living leads to dying” and of course, that’s difficult to argue. I am all for healthy living, and doing whatever you need to do to make yourself feel better. And I’m all for eliminating those things in life that you feel are bad for you and your family. But you simply cannot eliminate every single element that may cause cancer or might otherwise be bad for you. Unless you live on farm in the middle of nowhere, grow your own food, raise your own animals, make everything you need including clothing, food, cleaning supplies and furniture, you’re going to come into contact with something that’s not good for you. The trick is determining what things are most likely to have the biggest impact on your health and do what you can to eliminate those.
The chemicals that seem to cause the most concern for non-shampooers is isopropyl alcohol, propylene glycol (PG) and butylene glycol, and Sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) and sodium laureth sulfate (SLES). I wouldn’t want to use a shampoo with isopropyl alcohol in it either, unless my hair was extremely oily. It’s very drying and I just don’t see how it could be good for the hair. I suspect that for those with dandruff, isopropyl alcohol would be like throwing fuel on a fire. Fortunately, it’s not one of the ingredients in my shampoo.
Next is propylene glycol (PG) – which IS in my shampoo base. According to this website, propylene glycol penetrates skin and weakens cellular structure. AND it removes barnacles from boats. But there’s no source for that information, and I read several sites that gave no indication that either of these claims are true. I don’t like to use Wikipedia as a source for anything, but this article is well sourced and seems to be in agreement (and much easier to read and understand) with the other sites I’ve found that discuss propylene glycol and it’s health risks. In short, there is no real effect either to skin or eyes when using products that contain PG. Rats had to ingest significant amounts for it to affect them, but after they were removed from the PG diet, the results were reversed in time. If you’re going to give up shampoo for this product, be ready to also give up milk, cheeses, vanilla extract and other vanilla flavorings, among other items. One final word about PG … the ASPCA recommends the use of PG containing anti-freeze over ethylene glycol, because it generally will not kill an animal that drinks it. So if you hear that it’s used in “anti-freeze and de-icers” realize that it’s used as a safe alternative to ethylene glycol that has traditionally been used in those products.
Butylene glycol is also considered quite safe. It appears that the majority of the hype surrounding glycols is actually because of ethylene glycol, which is mentioned above. Ethylene glycol is fatal to animals at fairly low doses – one source said that it only took a few tablespoons to kill cat or dog, but I couldn’t find exact doses that would cause that. It is considered a poison, whereas the others are not. At any rate, butylene glycol is not listed on my ingredient list, so I will not pursue further it at this point.
Sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) and sodium laureth sulfate (SLES) are next on the list of harmful chemicals. In 1976, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review was formed to test the ingredients used in cosmetics. They have found that SLS and SLES pose no significant health risk to humans in small quantities and without prolonged exposure. I don’t know about you, but I don’t wash my hair and then leave the soap there. I rinse it out, usually within a minute or so of working it into a lather. In these concentrations and applications, SLS has been deemed safe. You may notice that this link does mention skin and eye irritation, but many natural ingredients will cause the same effect – my daughter cannot use anything with lavender in it because she is allergic to lavender. My shampoo uses Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate and Ammonium Laureth Sulfate both of which have been deemed safe in the concentrations found in shampoos and other cosmetic ingredients. Indeed, the claims made by Nature Moms that “[a]nimals exposed to SLS experienced eye damage, depression, labored breathing, diarrhea, severe skin irritation and even death” could not be found or substantiated. And again, they have no source information on the site as to where that came from, so I cannot substantiate it.
All I’m suggesting is that you have to make the determination for yourself. I personally see nothing that would give me a reason to stop using shampoo, if that’s what I wanted to use. I do use my label at times, and sometimes I use one of my bar soaps. The truth is, it all depends on what I’m feeling when I get into the shower. Because of his eczema problem, my 15 year old son prefers to use soap that I make, and that’s ok too. Like I said at the beginning of this post, the only way to keep yourself completely safe is to know where each and every component of each and every product you use comes from, and that simply isn’t possible.
I wouldn’t recommend that Snork go back to using Pantene, because I never recommend it to anyone. But I see no reason for her to try to keep using water on her hair – because let’s face it. Municiple water isn’t that clean anyway, and if you’re using it to “wash” already unclean hair without some sort of cleanser … all you’re doing is making your dirty hair wet. And no one likes the smell of dirty wet hair.
I don’t see a problem with cleansing per se, but yeah – I’d personally avoid any questionable ingredients. Propylene Glycol can be OK IF it is made from vegetable glycerin mixed with grain alcohol. But usually it’s synthetic. There are so many good, natural things out there to cleanse your hair (like your shampoo bars)…we get exposed to enough, I’d like to reduce it wherever I can.
I wrote a blog about 10 syntehtic cosmetic ingredients to avoid…based on research by Aubrey Hampton, the founder of Aubrey Organics. I wish I could get a hold of the MSDS (materials safety data sheets) they use in manufacturing plants…we’d probably find out a bunch of stuff we don’t need to know. I’m guessing that a lot of the info you found posted has its root in those sheets or similar research.
I like finding smaller companies like yours, because I know you put time/effort/research into your ingredients. Not so with some of the larger manufacturers, with the exceptions of Aubrey Organics, Giovanni, and a few others. But it is ultimately up to the consumer what they will and will not expose themselves to.
And I definitely agree – no more Pantene for Snork. Blech! LOL I also love using a shower head filter – my hair and skin feel so much better, and it makes it easier for products like yours to work.
If I can find any more interesting links, I’ll let you know. Sorry for blogging in your comments!
No apologies necessary! The thing about MSDS shees is this … even salt sounds ominous on an MSDS! LOL And MSDS sheets look ONLY at the particular product that it’s about – in it’s concentrated form, and not diluted to 1% of the total make up of a product. But yes, I agree that we should keep such things to a minimum.
I am getting ready to change the hosting service for the website, but after I do, I intend to start listing ingredients for each product so people can make informed decisions. I’ve just had issues with long descriptions taking forever to update on the current service!
Poor Snork; she really needs to start over I think, with a decent shampoo and get rid of that wax. THEN maybe move on to the shampoo & soap bars and such.
I once read (on a haircare website for what that’s worth, and AGES ago so I might have this backwards) that sodium lauryl/eth sulfate is “better” for your hair than ammonium lauryl/eth sulfate, but that ammonium blah blah is cheaper, and that’s why you find it in the drugstore brands a la Pantene, and the sodium blah blah in more upscale, salon brands. Thoughts?
I don’t believe that one is “better” for your hair than the other … I think they are so close in chemical make up and so little is used that it’s a tactic used by “upscale” brands to make their products stand apart from “drug store” products. My sister was a beautician for years, and she, like other beauticians who were unencumbered by their need to sell products, told me repeatedly that the ONLY two shampoos they would avoid are Pantene and … baby shampoo! Believe it or not, baby shampoo is one of the harshest that you can buy. Crazy, huh?
My sister has long maintained that Sauve is no different from Paul Mitchell or Aveda. The outcry against Pantene is that it coats the hair with a waxy substance to achieve the smooth look and feel they tout as being so wonderful. What you really want to avoid, religiously, are alcohols that are in shampoos, not because of their “cancer causing properties” but because alcohol is very drying.
Most of the salon brands aren’t worth the money, honestly. That much I learned for myself. And many of them contain ingredients that do far more harm than good, unfortunately.
“A study at the University of Georgia Medical College, indicated that SLS penetrated into the eyes as well as brain, heart, liver, etc., and showed long-term retention in the tissues. The study also indicated that SLS penetrated young children’s eyes and prevented them from developing properly and caused cataracts to develop In adults.”
“Is potentially harmful to skin and hair. Cleans by corrosion. Dries skin by stripping the protective lipids from the surface so it can’t effectively regulate moisture.”
“SLS reacts with many types of ingredients used in skin products and forms nitrosomines (nitrates). Nitrates are potential cancer-causing carcinogenics.”
From the Journal of the American College of Toxicology:
“In absorption, metabolism and excretion studies Sodium Lauryl Sulfate had a degenerative effect on the cell membranes because of its protein denaturing properties. High levels of skin penetration may occur at even low use concentration.”
See? There are lots of studies. Both in states and abroad!
Plus, really, it cleans by stripping, and the soap hasn’t. At the very least the top of my crusty head appears to be in tip top shape. LoL. Small battles. I think the crap in my hair is what the scalp produces, the sebum stuff. Because my initial baking soda baths and vinegar rinses would have stripped any build up (taking my hair color with it).
Down with shampoo, bring out the bar!!!!!
It is, of course, your choice to use whatever products you see fit to use. BUT … the very text you quote does not actually refer to the actual studies. To the contrary, it uses the “threat” of these studies, without actually providing the true text of them, to scare people. I’m not saying that in full or even half concetrations that these products wouldn’t be dangerous. But you’re not getting nearly the dosage in a bottle of shampoo as they’ve supposedly plied those lab animals with!
By the way, if you’re going to give it up in your shampoo, you better start looking for a new toothpaste and deodorant, as that likely contains SLS as well. LOL Good luck finding one that doesn’t have SLS … even the “all natural” brands of deodorant and toothpaste often contain these “dangerous” chemicals.
Information like you listed become immediately suspect to me when I CAN trace source data. Check out the “reproduced” information on your site Versus the actual information in it’s unadulterated form. See the difference? Read them both carefully and note the differences.
I’m sorry Snork. It IS your choice to use the products you feel most comfortable with, and I’m honored that you feel confident in mine. But I can’t continue to carry forth the myth that these chemicals do things that have never been proven, and in fact, have been refuted on many occasions.
Love ya!
THere’s a toothpaste I want to try, made out of a base of coconut oil. I ordered some coconut cream concentrate from these folks, and forgot to order the toothpaste. Oops! But yeah, most of the “natural” toothpastes and deodorants still have some bad stuff in them.
Pantene is the devil. I sat in the aisle once and compared the ingredients list for their “Relaxed and Natural” line vs. “Hydrating Curls”…it was pretty much the same, with 1 or 2 varied ingredients. Hilarious. I won’t lie – I did use it early on and it gave the greatest slip. I could detangle my hair with my fingers, and that says a lot. But the build up and other side effects is simply not worth it.
@ Snork, did you know some folks only use water on their hair? I was reading up on it and basically they just allow the scalp’s sebum to do everything for them. Not brave enough to try that just yet. I hope the shampoo bars work for you!
That’s what Snork was TRYING to get to – water only. I just don’t see how that can possibly work, though. I’ve seen lots of people on the internet say they do that, but have yet to find anyone IRL that will cop to it.
Marilie – yeah, that’s the actual goal. I don’t know that I would ever work down to that, but ideally it’d be nice to, say wash once a week with soap, and once a week with water. I can’t do that using shampoo, because it’s too harsh in the way it cleans, and forces the scalp to overcompensate, and I have limp hair, so the greasy look isn’t hot. Right now though, the not feeling super greasy on top has been replaced with the sebum in middle and bottom. Also not hot.
Quilts, I feel like what you’re saying is similar to, “cigarrettes are bad, but an occasional one won’t hurt you”. Which, in a sense I guess is true? I’d like to read studies that refute bad effects of these chemicals, and the studies that have proven it to be a myth. I offered a couple links to a couple studies. There are many more out there. And I really have to disagree with classifying the sulfates’ properties findings as myths. Unless, I guess, I was forwarded to some relevant research.
I DID give you relevant research. The actual research from the actual people who did the research. In the link you gave, there was nothing identifiable from the sources it claimed. In fact, if you read what I posted, you will see that one of the sources your link claims says that SLS is bad for you in reality says something much different. They took the source information and they altered it to fit their purpose.
I’m not saying that smoking the occasional cigarette is bad – it doesn’t really compare to washing your hair. LOL What I AM saying is, you have to make decisions for YOU. If you choose not to wash, I’m good with that. But don’t make that decision based upon faulty information that’s been altered and the repeated ad naseum on the internet. Do it because you WANT to do it, but don’t perpetuate false information, KWIM?
I don’t know anyone IRL who does this, either. But the few threads I read on the hair boards, I guess it takes a while before your hair adjusts to this method. And I would assume it works much better the less styling/moisturizing products you use. Therefore, this method is out for me.
Well, for starters, I do not believe it to be false information. And, I’m launching into this argument, not because I am super anti chemical – I dye my hair, and I do smoke an occasional cigarette, but because I think you’re wrong. LoL. Just to clear that up.
The link you pointed to – offered NO studies. It is the Cosmetic Ingredient Review, waving their hand AT studies, and saying, “Nah, it’s alright”. For brief and discontinuos use, anyway.
What is the Cosmetic Ingredient Review? I gather it is a gig funded by Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association (I mean, really?) and they have a whopping 7 member scientific cast. Who are these people? Why is that “the expert panel wishes to point out..” more relevant than double blind studies conducted at various Universities and places around the world?
I understand that it is everywhere, like cigarette smoke, but I disagree with calling its adverse effects myths and false information. I ESPECIALLY disagree when you base that decision on a 2 paragraph quip from CIR. And specifically given the quality and content of said quip.
First of all, I’m not really sure where you get the “whopping 7 member scientific cast” that you don’t seem to be able to identify. You can find the members here. Most of them are academics; they aren’t working in the cosmetic industry. It’s true that it was established by the industry trade association, but it also has the US Food & Drug Administration and the Consumer Federation of America involved as well. The three of them make up the council that funds the CIR.
But honestly, I really think you’re missing my point. Unless you haven’t read the information in the link you provided, there’s just no way that you can’t see the information in that link is a bastardization of the information on the CIR website. There are whole paragraphs that were lifted from the CIR website to make the case that you’re upholding … with additions that support the “it’s all bad and the sky is falling” tempo of your link. It’s funny to me that you’re calling me out on this “2 paragraph quip from CIR” and calling into question it’s quality and content when your link uses the exact same 2 paragraph quip, just broken up and interspersed with information that supports an opposing viewpoint!
I have provided you with several links that DO support my side of the argument. If you choose not to read them, that is certainly your prerogative. If you choose to continue to believe the things you’ve read, that is also your prerogative. But I personally cannot and will not support the idea of the things that are being touted on the internet as harmful and doing all this horrible damage to animals because I cannot find actual scientific evidence that it has happened that way. This abstract of an article that was published in the International Journal of Toxicology clearly states that SLES and ALES are safe as used in current cosmetics. I’m not going to pay $32 to read the actual article but I think it’s fairly safe to say that it is in a respected industry journal and is backed up by actual research.
I cannot assess the validity of whether the actual article exists in the Journal of the American College of Toxicology because their website requires paid access; there is not even an abstract of the article in question that I have been able to locate.
Will the American Cancer Society convince you?
Another ACS article.
Why would the American Cancer Society – an organization whose whole mission is to promote research and study of things that can cause cancer – lie about whether or not SLS or SLES is a carcinogen? Why wouldn’t they tell us the truth if there were ANY adverse health effects that could be traced to these compounds? I can’t think of a reason, can you?
By the way, I found a Medical College of Georgia, but not a University of Georgia Medical College, so I couldn’t verify that “report” either.
I really have nothing left to say on this matter, because I think that I have provided many excellent sources of original information on this matter. I’m sorry that you disagree with me; it’s certainly your right to use the products you want to use. But as for me, I cannot and will not agree with the idea that these compounds are inherently evil, because I’ve found no solid proof that they are. At the end of the day, it all comes down to being comfortable with what you’re doing and how you feel about it. I don’t feel uncomfortable using shampoos or body washes because of these compounds.
Your choice is your decision.
I won’t think less of you for making it.
In your comment, you provided one link. It was to the CIR article. I fail to see a link to any studies. This latest link to ACS is an email. If you hang on a sec, I’ll publish an email declaring the earth is flat. And it will be so. Because I will have published an email.
If I disagree with an article, does it mean I have not read it? Reading it AGAIN will not make me agree. If you have links to scientific data, I will happily read them. So far, I guess you and I and everybody else (including the 7 academics in the CIR) seem to agree that they are caustic irritants. I am happy leaving it at that.
I am also happy to have identified the 7 scientists funded by the cosmetics industry. It makes their non research conclusion drawing a lot more relevant.